Portella Petita and Pelada

Portella Gran as seen from Portella Petita

 Long time no climb, that's what Xavi and me thought when we went to Montserrat last Saturday. Originally we had planned to climb the Elephant, but since we were out of practice, we spontaneously decided to make some lighter routes in the Agulles sector. We first tried ourselves at the GAM line of la Portella Petita.

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Portella Petita - GAM line going 

from bottom left to the top

I was first to climb the first pitch, rated grade III only. Even so I was nervous and couldn't enjoy what I did. I furthermore barely found any bolts where to secure, and the few friends I had, I set at the beginning far too close one to the other. Thus, I was relieved when I finally reached the well equipped stand located at the horizontal black line in the photo to the left. Xavi was to open the second pitch, which was shorter but harder. Under his command and without much difficulty, we reached the last stand under the ceiling, right between the top and the already mentioned black line. Next to come was the most complicated point. Xavi, again, climbed first and negotiated the 6th rated sting by setting a foot sling and pulling himself up with the help of a clip. Only then was he able to continue his climb up to the top. Even as second climber I had to proceed in the same way, for it was impossible for me to overcome that point without "cheating".

On top we still had the feeling the route being slightly too hard for us.

On top of la Portella Petita

Some photos, a rappel and a sandwhich later we went on to a neighbouring crag called la Pelada, the Peeled. The route most obvious to us was one called Aresta Nord, rated IV+ and of 20m length only. I was the one to begin. The first bolt was a little too far away in order to stay calm. Then I found no more bolts on our route, but saw one to my left, which probably was of a neighbouring line. As I tried to reach it, it got more and more difficult to keep myself on the wall and I honestly still don't know how I was able to first set a clip so far away from my stand and then clip the rope into it without loosing the precary adherence I was offered by the rock wall. The rest was easier and soon I reached the top.

Good place for a pub on la Pelada

I believe I'm still not confident enough when it comes to trusting my climbing shoes. I know the soles are awesome, but it seems they're even better. My second problem is, that I've never fallen. Personally I think that's great, but since I don't know how it is to fall some 5 or 6 metres into the rope, I'm actually quite scared of it. Maybe it's not as bad as I expect it to be and I could climb less nervously. We'll see ...  someday. 

Xavi x 3